Fig. 4

4. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana. From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and