Левый ромб

Rock630 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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A 5B category route on the south-eastern wall of the peak with a detailed description of the passage and characteristics of each section.

Via the Southeast Wall Left of the "Diamond" (Left Diamond), 5B (route by A. Volkodav, 1973)

The route passes through the right part of the southeast wall. From the road near the mountaineering campsites, move upwards and leftwards, initially along the trail and then across the scree (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — climb up through moderately steep slabs to a ledge with a large forked tree stump (R1–R2: 35 m, 70°, — IV). On the R2–R3 section — traverse left along the ledge to the base of an internal corner (with a piton under the corner) and then up the corner with a tree growing in the middle. Despite the short length of this section, it's convenient to set up a belay point at the top of the corner (there's a piton), as the direction of ascent changes and it will be challenging to pass the rope further (R2–R3: 20 m, 70°, IV). On the R3–R4 section — traverse left for 12 m and then climb up a slab from a piton towards a deciduous tree. From the tree, ascend through a weakly defined internal corner with a crack. After 20 m, the crack ends at a plug/cornice. Above the plug, there's a convenient belay point on pitons. Characteristics of the R3–R4 section:

  • 12 m, 60°, III
  • 10 m, 80°, V
  • 20 m, 85°, VI On the R4–R5 section — climb up through a crack and slab to a ledge under an overhanging wall.
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