Злобный карлик

Rock
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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The "Zlobnyy karlik" (Nasty Dwarf) route, 5A, 255 m, 6B, A2 on Sokol via the right part of the wall with a height gain through challenging sections and artificial terrain usage.

Sokol — 39

The "Malevolent Dwarf" 5A, 255 m 6B, A2 Lavrinenko A., Tushko T. (August 7, 2007) The route starts 100 m to the right of the beginning of the approach to "Brov'" and "Gran'".

  • R0–R1: Easy climbing up the cleft to a tree, 50 m 4.
  • R1–R2: From the tree, go up to a ledge below the "Brov'" route, 60 m 5B.
  • R2–R3: Climb up the corner formed by the wall and an overhanging rock; protection is hard to organize. The station is on a ledge on its own pitons, 35 m 6A+/5C, A1. R3–R4: From the station, go up and to the right into a cleft, bypassing "rattling" overhangs. Then follow the clefts, veering right at the top onto a ledge. The station is on a bolt and pitons. 60 m 5C. 4–5. From the station, start up the corner to the left for 5 m, then continue straight up. The terrain is rich but crumbling, with many unreliable blocks.
  • Climb the inner corner (there's a bolt) to below an overhang
  • Pass the overhang on pitons (pitons in place)
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