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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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A description of the passage of the "Center" route (6A) to the Morcheka summit with a detailed account of the technique and difficulties in various sections.

Mor­cheka — 15

The "Cen­ter" Route (6A)

First Ascent: Za­syp­kin — Khor­khe Ko­rys Ar­ti­cle au­thor: Mak­sim Kos­trov Route Scheme The weather is sunny. We are in no hurry. We decided to hang three ropes, lift the platform, a sack with cargo, and then rappel on that day. We hang and level the platform — we will pull it out in its assembled form. Then I hang all sorts of "hardware" on myself and start climbing. Kirill is belaying. Sergey Tretyakov hung a camera and a camcorder on himself — on this ascent, he is in the role of a cameraman. Up a thin crack to the left, then across a mirror-like surface through a white patch to a small flake. From it, a long, shallow undercutting goes to the right and slightly upwards. "It looks like it was pressed in with a log," said Yura Kruglov when explaining the route.

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