Merdven-Kaya­sy — 8. "Odessa Express"

Massif: Merdven-Kaya­sy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 6A VI A2 Author: Lavri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of route creation: 2008 Length: 365 m Route description: From the "Chertova lest­nitsa" (Devil's Staircase) along the upper road approximately 1 km east, then along the dirt road to the parking areas, then along the trail, and then along easy rocks and talus to approach the wall. The route passes through the center of the bastion, then crosses a belt of simple rocks, moves left under a clearly visible gap cutting through the summit tower. And through it, it leads to the yayla. R0–R1 40 m

• Through simple rocks
• Left upwards
• Reach a sloping grassy ledge Station on juniper. 2B R1–R2, 40 m. From the station upwards — left, along a slab into a reclining angle with grass (there is a bolt). Along the angle, left upwards, to a small tree, then through an internal angle to reach a small ledge. From the ledge upwards and slightly right, through a system of cracks to a narrow ledge — here is the station.

On the right side of the "Green corner" through the eaves 5A, VI, 400 m, V. Timofeev, 1981. The route can be started along the left CPC, or like the previous route, the main thing is to reach the large ledge. R3–R4: Up the cleft, to the tree. Station on the tree. IV, 30 m R4–R5: From the tree upwards along a steep, interrupted cleft 10 m, V+, further it becomes easier, along an overgrown cleft 40 m, IV. Station on a ledge. V+, 50 m R5–R6: Up the cleft, climbing is difficult, exit to a small ledge in front of the eaves. There is a bolt. VI, A1, 40 m R6–R7: From the station up, under the eaves. The first one is bypassed on the left, then traverse to the right, exit to the inner corner 10 m, V+, further up the system of inner corners 40 m, IV–V, station on a tree. V, 50 m From here, first along simple rocks 20 m, then walking along the slope to reach the yayla. From the "hardware" you will need:

• nuts
• cams