Подарок
Route Description: Подарок
SSummitMateA new 4B category route to the summit of Merdven-Kayasы (856 m) in Crimea, laid in 2007, 225 meters long with a passage time of 4-6 hours.
Merdvеn-Kayasy — 14. “Present”
Massif: Merdvеn-Kayasy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4Б V A1 Author: Lavrinenko A.,
Tsushko T. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 225 m
Time to ascend: 4–6 hours Route description: The approach begins from the place where a dirt road leads to Khergiani rock. Follow the path upwards, bearing right, bypassing Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some simple scrambling to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack.
R0–R1 40 m Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and slots; the climbing is steady, and protection is easy to organize.
Equipment:
- medium and large cams
- stoppers The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and room for own pitons. IV
Route Description: Подарок
SSummitMateThe "Gift" 4B route on Merdeven-Kayas, first ascent, detailed description of the path, insurance and necessary equipment.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa — Crimea. Merdven-Kayas. First ascents. Results of the first half of 2007.
"Present" Route 4B
Lavrinenko A. Tsushko T. The approach starts from the point where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some easy climbing to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. 0–1 40 m 5c — Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and cracks. The climbing is uniform, and protection is easy to organize (medium and large friends, stoppers). The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and our own pitons. 1–2 52 m 5c — From the station, move upwards to the right, climb over a large boulder, then continue upwards into an internal corner, and up through the corner transitioning into a chimney (stoppers, pitons) to reach a strongly inclined grassy ledge. Ascend the ledge to the left towards a large pine tree. Belay station. 2–3 54 m 6a A1 From the station:
- move upwards to the left towards a small ridge
- continue upwards through internal corners