Карнавал
Route Description: Карнавал
Description of the "Carnival" route 4B on Uarch-Kaya in Crimea with a detailed analysis of the passage and necessary equipment.
Route description prepared by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow Uarch-Kaya, "Karnaval" route, cat. 4B, (10 pitches, 6a grade), 270 m
"Karnaval" route line
Condition as of August 30, 2003
Approach: From the forester's house near Kilse-Burun peak, take the Upper Road for 3.5 km towards "Chortova Lestnica" pass. You can leave your car near the second bridge (counting from the forester's house). From the memorial, follow a wide, well-trodden path (the path starts from the "Opolznevskoe forestry" sign on the left side of the road, if you're driving from the forester's house) upwards towards "Chortova Lestnica" pass for about 3-4 minutes until you reach the southeastern ridge, where the "Surpriz" 1B route begins. The start of the "Surpriz" route is marked with blue paint on the rock. From the inscription, follow downwards along the riverbed for about 50 m, then turn right and move about 20 m under the wall to the characteristic blocky rocks (a sign should be installed here soon). R0–R1:
- Climb simple blocky rocks to the left onto a ledge with trees (20 m, no protection)
- Then, follow an internal corner with a stationary piton at its base, move 25 m (III+, medium and large stoppers, friends) right-upwards along moderately difficult rocks to a large terrace with juniper. Belay station on two stationary pitons.