Object 20193808
Route Description: траверс с востока на запад
Description of a combined route, category 4A, to the summits of Dolra and Khevai (First Eastern, Eastern, Central) in the Tsey district of North Ossetia.
313. Dolra — Khevay (combined route, P. Kovaleva, 4A cat. sl., Fig. 32, 42). From the summit Dolra East (m. 307) along simple destroyed rocks of the ridge with three snow-ice bridges (cornices) ascend to the summit Dolra Main. From Main down steep destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with two rappels descent to the saddle.
From the saddle along simple destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge ascend to the summit Dolra West.
From the West down steep rocks of the Western ridge to the bridge.
Bypass a small gendarme of the bridge on slabs to the left.
Then along rocks of medium difficulty and snowy slopes on the left side of the ridge bypass on the right V and IV gendarmes of the "pyala" and behind them exit to the bridge.
From the bridge along simple rocks of the ridge pass:
- III and II gendarmes of the "pyala"
- rappel under I gendarme Bypass the gendarme by traversing 25 m along steep rocks above medium difficulty to the right (rotten rocks) with exit to the site of the bridge under the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the summit Khevay First East.
Route Description: траверс
4A category route via the crest linking Xsvaï and Dolra peaks, a mixed itinerary, with a description of ridge travel, gendarme crossings, and rock sections.
315. Khsvai — Dolra (combined route, V. Yakubovich, 4A cat. diff., fig. 32, 42). From the summit Khsvai Zapadnaya (p. 312) down along the simple rocky Eastern ridge, bypassing the gendarme on the right, to a snowy saddle (cornice). From here, ascend along the simple rocks of the 80–90-meter Western ridge to the summit Khsvai Tsentralnaya. From Zapadnaya, approximately 1 hour. From Tsentralnaya, descend 120–150 m along the snowy rocky Eastern ridge to a saddle. From the saddle, ascend along the simple rocky ridge, then along narrow shelves on its right side. Further, along the dihedral corner, then along the Western ridge to the summit Khsvai Vostochnaya. From Tsentralnaya, approximately 1 hour. From Vostochnaya, descend 160–200 m down steep simple rocks with short walls of medium difficulty along the Eastern ridge to a snowy col (cornice). Along the snowy ridge of the col, approach under the wall of the gendarme "Plita". Bypass it and the next gendarme "Palechit" on the right along the slabs (gully) with an exit to a platform. Further, along simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the ridge ("live" rocks), ascend to the gendarme "Nakra".
From the gendarme "Nakra", along simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the ridge, with a 30-meter rappel down the slabs to a col under the gendarme "Stolb", which is bypassed on the right along a snowy slope with a 50-meter descent. Behind it, exit to a platform on a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend along a simple, long, heavily destroyed, местами snowy, and rocky Western ridge to the summit Khevai Pervaya Vostochnaya. From Vostochnaya, 5–7 hours.
From Pervaya Vostochnaya, descend along simple rocks, then 80 meters along smooth steep slabs, a 20-meter wall, and simple rocks to a platform on a saddle under the I gendarme of the "saw".
Route Description: траверс
Description of the ascent route to the summit with illustration and detailed analysis of technical features and ascent tactics.
Fig. 42.