Бутнубмеэр

First ascent to the summit Butnubmez Glavny (3932 m) by the northwest couloir and Jnmu ridge, 2A category of complexity.

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. Climbing hours – 4. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). Leader: