Тютюргу, Южная

The route to the summit of Tютюргу South via the South-Eastern edge is rocky, takes 5-6 hours from the initial bivouac, and is ranked as category IIIA.

Tutyurgiu South via South-East Ridge (a rock route by A. Naumov, cat. III difficulty, figs. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper circus below the tongue of the East Shaurtu glacier is described in route 142. Having moved 150–200 m left of the base of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak, turn right and enter a narrow rocky couloir on the left side of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak. The route follows: easy slabs, broken rocks of the couloir, a 7–8-meter smooth slab (easy rock section),

### Route Description to Peak Tyu-Tyurgiu from Bezengi Alpine Camp * Climbing category and complexity level * Key features and challenges of the route * Essential safety measures and precautions for a successful ascent.

Tjutyrgu Peak S. Day 1. From the Bezengi alpine camp, the trail goes along the right (orographically) coastal moraine of Bezengi Glacier to Misses-kosh. From Misses-kosh, the entire path to the Tjutyrgu cirque is clearly visible. A wide couloir with two rock steps resembling sheep's foreheads is visible. Two streams flow through the couloir, merging into one at the lower step. After crossing Bezengi Glacier, one needs to: ascend to its left-bank moraine to the right of the gully formed by the stream; cross the stream under the sheep's foreheads and skirt them on the grassy slopes on the left; before reaching the second step, cross the stream again via a snow bridge and ascend between the streams — first on grassy slopes, then on moraine. In its upper part, the couloir turns left, widens, and flattens, turning into a cirque. The cirque is bounded by the peaks, from right to left: Tjutyrgu; MVTU;