ОПТЭ (4480 m)

Ascent from the Shokalsky glacier via the North-Eastern ridge, route category 2A (fig. 23). The summit of ОПТЭ is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the north of it lies the Shokalsky glacier, to the south - one of the branches of the Bogatyr glacier - the Shuitsa glacier. From the Talgar alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge to the Shokalsky glacier. To the left of the river, ascend the steep lateral moraine of the glacier, along its upper part to a gentle sandy area. This is a possible bivouac site. From the camp - 4 hours walking. It is possible to continue along the same moraine further to a characteristic hill with a cairn. After three hundred meters - descend to the glacier. After a kilometer and a half, cross the glacier to the right towards the scree of the eastern spur. Here is also a convenient place

Fig. 23