ВЦСПС, Южная
Peak4,000 m
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of a combined route of 2B category of complexity to the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif (Northern, Central, and Southern peaks) in the Tsey district.
- VTsSPS-Karaugomsky North-South (combined route, category 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsей Alpine Camp (TsAL) or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau under the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses) approach the base of the North ridge of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif across the snow plateau, and, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the North ridge. Along the gently sloping snowy North ridge (cornices) and a small rocky ascent — ascent to the North summit of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif. From the North summit, a short descent towards the Central summit. Further along the gently sloping snowy ridge (cornices), then across simple rocks — ascend to the Central
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Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of a combined route, category 2B complexity level, to the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif (Northern, Central, and Southern peaks) in the Tsey region.
- VTSSPS-Karaugomsky South — North (combined route, category 2B,
Fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsey region KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau under the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83.
From the bivouac (closed crevices), approach the right side of the saddle connecting Bokos to VTSSPS-Karaugomsky across the plateau. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund using a snow bridge, and ascend 80–100 m up the snowy slope to the snowy saddle (belay). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rock ascent leads to the South ridge of the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif.
Further along the long, simple, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered South ridge with numerous simple gendarmes, approach the rock ascent to the South summit. Ascend the 15–20-meter wall (loose rocks — piton belay) to the South summit. From the South summit, traverse along the simple, heavily destroyed rock ridge to approach the wall of the Central summit and ascend it straight up (loose rocks — belay) to the Central summit of the massif. From the Central summit, traverse along the long, gently sloping snow ridge (cornices) to reach the North summit. From the North summit, make a short descent onto the snowy North ridge and then descend along it (cornices), followed by its right slope, overcoming the bergschrund in the lower part, and descend rightward onto the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau.
The duration of the route is 6–8 hours excluding approaches.
Fig. 29
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