DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages: