Якум
Route Description: с запада
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Yakum from the west via route category III, description of the path, key terrain features, and ascent duration 3–4 hours.
55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.
From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks.
The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours.
Fig. 29.
Route Description: с юго-запада
SSummitMateDescription of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of Yakum from the southwest, including details on passage and insurance.
56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.
From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope.
From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn.
Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge.
Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.