Крылья Таджикистана, Центральная
Peak3,850 m
Route Description: Ю кф.
SSummitMateClimbing guide to the summit **Kryl'ya Tadzhikistana** (3650 m) via a rock route of 4A difficulty category with a detailed description of the approach and the route.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: Rock.
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Varzobek area, Pily.
- Peak: Krylya Tadzhikistana, its height is 3650 m, ascent route to the Central peak via the southern counterfort.
- Expected difficulty category: 4A.
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 550 m.
- Average steepness: 50°.
- Length of sections: 1300 m, 2370 m, 3130 m, 430 m, 540 m, 6 m.
- Pitons driven:
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Route Description: траверс 3-х вершин
SSummitMate### Description of Climbing Route to the "Wings of Tajikistan" Peaks Detailed guide for traversing the 2B category complexity route to the three peaks, including the path and necessary equipment.
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Description of the Traverse
3 peaks of "Wings of Tajikistan" 2B cat. sl. A group from the "Varzob" tourist camp crosses to the right bank of the "Varzob" river and moves upstream until the first stream (after Siama) flows into the "Varzob" river. The stream originates under the saddle between "Varzobskaya Pila" and the "Wings of Tajikistan" peak. The path goes up the stream:
- initially along the scree (on the right side of the path),
- then along the snow,
- the ascent to the saddle is again along the scree. Overnight stay is organized at convenient platforms. From the bivouac, the movement is westward along the ridge. Small gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The snowy ridge leads to the base of the eastern peak.
- The first gendarme is bypassed on the left
- The second is taken "head-on"
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