Description

Ascent to Peak Peredovoy via the Northwest Edge (First Ascent of the Route)

Geographical Information

Peak Peredovoy (6056 m) is located in the uppermost part of the Fedchenko Glacier area, in the northwest spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge, which branches off to the northwest opposite Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars (see diagram). The northeastern slopes of the spur are steep and hidden by hanging glaciers; the western slopes are less steep and composed of shattered rocks and steep glaciated scree, most of which is covered with snow. The northwestern end of the spur drops steeply towards the Fedchenko Glacier (see photograph of the general view of Peak Peredovoy). The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier have relatively gentle relief with a large number of hidden crevasses. Near the end of the spur, the crevasses are wide and open. Before the ascent described, Peak Peredovoy was climbed twice: by Dobrynin's group (August 12, 1960) and by Miklevich's group, which ascended Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars. Both times the ascent was made from the western slopes - the easiest route for ascent - rated 3B category of difficulty.

Approaches

The approaches to Peak Peredovoy were made via the following route. From the Lower Base Camp (altitude 3900 m), located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier, to the Upper Base Camp on the Fedchenko Glacier (altitude 5000 m) and further to the camp under Peak Revolyutsii (from which the ascent to Peak Revolyutsii by Myshlyaev's group was observed); see diagram.