Kvarmash

Peak3,710 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Descriptions of routes to the peaks of Nenskra and Kuarmash in the Caucasus mountain region, indicating the categories of complexity and features of passage.

331. Nenskra via North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra peak, ascend via an avalanche-prone couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks alternating with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks) to the Upper Rock Belt. From there, ascend steep, heavily broken rocks of above-average difficulty to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, reach the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast peaks of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7-8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the ridge spur to the summit of Nenskra Southwest. Descend to the col via the ascent route. From the col, via monolithic simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent, then along the long Western ridge, ascend to the summit of Nenskra Northeast. From the Northeast summit, descend via heavily broken simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Northeast ridge to the col under the Big Gendarme. Overcome the Gendarme head-on via simple rocks of the ridge, then via rappelling and sport descent to the saddle under the snowy shoulder. From the saddle, via a simple snow-covered rocky ridge, exit onto the snowy shoulder. From the shoulder, via a gentle snow-covered rocky ridge, descend to the snow plateau under the nameless Main Caucasian Ridge pass. From the Southwest peak, 5-7 hours.

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A description of the route to the summit of Nerusskaya via the northeast and southwest ridges with a detailed analysis of the complexity categories and technical details.

Nerusskaya

NORTH — EAST SOUTH — WEST Fig. 44. Nerussky spur

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