Псыш
Route Description: 3 гребню с л. ЮЗ. Псыш
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to the summit of Pshysh (3509 m) via the western ridge, difficulty category 2B-3A, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:
- to the west — Naur,
- to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
- Northern Psysh,
- Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
- Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
- 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)
Route Description: 3 гребню с л. ЮЗ. Псыш
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key moments, and necessary skills for successfully conquering the world's highest peak.
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and necessary skills to overcome it.
Route Description: Ю гребню и Ю стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the summit of Tokmak (3438 m) via the southern ridge and southern wall (4A cat. dif.) by the SGGP "Skif" group led by A.A. Plotnikov on September 11, 2001.
Ascent Passport
- Class: rock
- Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Pshysh River valley.
- Tokmak (3438 m). Via the South slope and South wall
- Proposed 4A category difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference: 1318 m. Rock part 390 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 40 m. Average steepness of the key part of the route is 80–85°. Overall route steepness is 35–45°. Total route length (rock part) is 1075 m.
- Pitons left on the route: rock 6 pieces.
- Team's climbing hours: nine up, five down.
- Leader: Plotnikov Alexander Alexandrovich, 1st sports category.