Peak Zhelaya Stena (Yellow Wall)
3800 m
Report
of the team "Black-Ice" and Tomsk region (TFA) on the ascent to peak Zhelaya Stena via the inner corner of the southern wall. The route is proposed as category 3B (rock climbing) 
Participants:
- Temerev I.M.
- Tipikin S.N.
Ascent Passport:
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Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge (Kara-Su river valley), 5.4.3.
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Peak – Zhelaya Stena, 3800 m.
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Route via the inner corner of the southern wall, first ascended by a Russian team, proposed category 3B.
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Route characteristics: rock climbing.
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Height difference: 350 m. Total route length: 550 m. Length of sections: category IV – 95 m, category V – 150 m. Average steepness: 55°.
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Equipment left on the route: 0.
Equipment used:
- rock pitons – 5,
- protection gear (friends) – 28.
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Climbing time: 4 hours, 1 day.
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Team leaders: Temerev I.M. – Master of Sports, Tipikin S.N. – 2nd class.
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Coaches: Temereva E.O., Kholoptsev A.S.
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Departure to the route: August 1, 2019.
Ascent to the summit: August 1, 2019. Return to Base Camp: August 1, 2019.
Map of the region
Pamir-Alay
Turkestan Range
Scale 1:100000
Legend:
General view of the peak. View from the Kara-Su valley
Route threads on the wall. View from peak Kyrkchilta.
- 3B, via the inner corner of the southern wall, 2019, Temerev–Tipikin.
- 2B, via the fault of the eastern wall (left to right), 2014, Temerev–Temereva.
- 5A, via the left part of the eastern wall, Zhigalov–Ermishina, 2014.
- 5A, via the left part of the eastern wall, Korulin–Mukhametzyanov, 2019.
- 4B, via the center of the eastern wall, Solonnikov, 1987.
- 5B, via the center of the eastern wall, Yanushevich, 2005.
- 5A, via the right part of the eastern wall, Terekh–Khvochtenko, 2019.
Route profile photo.
General view of the route:
UIAA route diagram.
Route description by sections
Walk upstream along the Kara-Su river, almost to the stream between Zhelaya Stena and Serebryanaya Stena peaks. Before reaching the stream, start ascending through arch tree thickets and "ram's foreheads" towards the fault of the eastern wall. Upon entering the large steep inner corner, rope up and move with protection for 150 m, II, 30° "ram's foreheads".
Start from a grassy ledge, climbing slabs generally upwards and to the right towards the large inner corner of the southern wall.
| Section | Length, m | Pitons | Friends | Angle, ° | Difficulty, UIAA (FAR) | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1 | 45 | 1 | 3 | 60–65 | V | slabs, overhang, jamming |
| R2 | 45 | 0 | 4 | 60–65 | V | slabs, overhang, jamming |
| R3 | 40 | 0 | 0 | 25 | II | rightwards, grassy inner corner |
| 15 | 0 | 0 | 15 | II | grassy ledge and inner corner | |
| R4 | 35 | 0 | 2 | 25 | III | gentle slabs with cracks |
| R5 | 15 | 0 | 3 | 65 | IV+ | steep slabs with cracks |
| 10 | 0 | 0 | 25 | II | small ledge with grass | |
| R6 | 15 | 0 | 0 | 20 | II | passage through cracks |
| 45 | 1 | 4 | 60–65 | IV+ | inner macro corner | |
| R7 | 60 | 1 | 3 | 65–70 | V–V+ | inner macro corner, cracks |
| R8 | 60 | 0 | 3 | 55 | III, 5 m IV | inner macro corner, slabs on the right side of the inner corner, cracks, 8 m left on a diagonal |
| R9 | 60 | 0 | 2 | 45 | III | cracks |
| R10 | 15 | 0 | 2 | 50 | III+ | cracks |
| 30 | 2 | 2 | 55 | IV | cracks, inner corners, jamming | |
| R11 | 120 | 0 | 0 | 10 | I | summit slope, grass with rocks |
Photos of route sections.
Section R1
Section R1
Section R1
Section R1
Section R2, view from top to bottom
Section R5 start
Section R5 upper part
Section R6
Upper part of R6
Section R7
Section R8
Top of R8
Section R9
Section R11
Photos from the summit
Photo of the summit note
From Tomsk and
as part of
Alel
Moscow
Tomsk
Kuskov Vasily
Kugasvanis Vanen bika Tomsk
Tipikin Sergey Moscow
Taran Alexey Tomsk
successfully
completed
Ascent
via route 1B
Solopikovo "Daa gonopo"
Good weather
Greetings to all :-)
Took the note
dated July 24, 2015
Group of Tomsk climbers
Ascent
025