At the end, the couloir narrows and you need to exit slightly to the right of the couloir, along the walls, since the upper part has overhanging cornices. The walls are short - 2-3 m - and usually end in shelves, convenient for practicing.
The exit to the pass is significantly higher than the lower point and to the left of it, the ascent takes 4 hours 30 minutes. At the exit to the ridge, a 1st control point is set up. The ridge drops off to the east with steep rocky-ice slopes, featuring large cornices. The first part of the ridge, 300 m long and with a slope of 50–60°, is icy.
Upwards, it is necessary to go along the icy slope to the right of the ridge, with piton belay. The slope is partially covered with a thin layer of snow, which makes the progress slightly easier. During the passage, 10 ice screws were hammered in. The ascent took 2 hours 30 minutes. The icy slope ends in a snow-ice depression, from which a talus slope leads to the shoulder of the summit.
Having ascended to the shoulder, you need to move along the talus slope (the ridge is gentle) below the line of the ridge - cornices!
The ascent to the first жандарм (bastion) takes 30 minutes. There are three жандармы on the ridge. The first one, 20 m high, is traversed on the frontal part via a crack. The rocks are average, with many cracks. 3 rock pitons were hammered in. The belays are light and lead to the second "жандарм" - a "saw", which is also traversed frontally. The height of this жандарм is about 15 m, with a slope ranging from 50° to 20°. The жандарм
From page 0, × 1, × 0.2 sheets, it is a narrow edge! The rocks are crumbling, making it a rockfall hazard, and inconvenient for belaying. The first climber sets up a belay