Ascent Passport

I. Ascent to peak Akduval, 442 m. First ascent. Ascent class — combined (ice and rock) II. Ascent area — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area. III. Peak Akduval 442 m via NE ridge. IV. Proposed category difficulty — 3B

  1. Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m, length of sections with category difficulty 3–4 — 340 m, average steepness — 52°. Pitons used: rock — 21, ice — 2. Number of walking hours — 12
  2. Number of overnight stays — none

Leader — Alimov V.P. Candidate Master of Sports

Participants:

  • Alekseeva I.A. 2nd category
  • Razmastaev M.D. 2nd category
  • Polyntsev V.A. 2nd category
  • Churukanova L.I. 2nd category
  • Desyatov D.P. 2nd category
  • Team coach — Belousov E.B. Candidate Master of Sports

II. Date of departure and return — July 19, 1987

  1. Organization — AUSB "Ala-Archa"

From the parking lot near the IMS station, ascend the left (in the direction of travel) side of the Golubina glacier to the plateau, then, overcoming two ascents, cross the glacier and approach the NE ridge (2 hours). To the bergschrund, 100 m on snow — simultaneous movement. The bergschrund is overcome via a snow bridge. Then, 40 m on ice with a steepness of 35° to the rocks.

On rocks with category difficulty II, 120 m with piton belay.

Section 2–3: rocks of above average difficulty, second rope with category difficulty 4, rocks are heavily destroyed.

Section 3–4: rocks of average difficulty, 120 m — crest. Piton belay.

Section 4–5: gentle, destroyed crest, 200 m. Passed simultaneously on the right side.

Descent from the summit via route 2B/category difficulty, to the Manas glacier, and then through the pass Shesti, descent to the Golubina glacier.

? Total ascent time — 12–14 hours.

On the route, the following were used:

  • 18 rock pitons
  • 2 ice screws

Attached files

Sources

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