Open Championship of the CIS (EAAC) on mountaineering in 2002
Class of technical ascents
Report
on the ascent of the team of the Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia to Erydag (3925 m) via the left part of the NW wall, a combination of S. Efimov's route, 81 and A. Babitskiy's route, 81
6A category of difficulty
Addresses
367015, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, Erlicha str., 17, Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, tel/fax (872-2) 67-23-85
367018, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, Nasrutdinova ave., 44 "B", apt. 16, Murtazaliev Ziyabudin Murtazalieevich
Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich Tel. (872-2) 65–46–84
Climbing passport
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Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
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Erydag, 3925 m, via the left part of the NW wall.
Combination of routes:
- S. Efimov's route, 81 via the "mirror"
- A. Babitskiy's route, 81 via the "sickle"
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6A category of difficulty.
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Rock climbing route.
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Height difference of the route 1100 m, route length 2200 m, wall height difference 950 m, wall route length 1250 m, average wall steepness 72°, length of sections with V category of difficulty — 890 m, VI category of difficulty — 60 m, climbed on artificial terrain (ATO) — 40 m, complexity A1 — 25 m, A2 — 10 m, A3 — 5 m.
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Hooks left on the route: 4
- Holes from a punch (8 mm) left: 8
- Total artificial protection points (ATO) used: 48
- Skyhooks used (times): 15
- Belay points used: total/including for ATO: 224/33
- rock hooks: 122/12
- chocks: 85/14
- bolted hooks: 17/7
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Team's climbing hours — 37, days — 5. Preliminary processing time: 3 hours, 1 day.
Overnight stays:
- 1st in ABC under the wall in tents (2750 m);
- 2nd on a ledge lying down (under the "sickle") (3100 m);
- 3rd on the "sickle" — one sitting on a ledge, two in hammocks (3400 m);
- 4th on a lying-down ledge under the summit ridges (3750 m).
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Team leader:
Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Master of Sports. Team members: Goryaev Anatoly Erdnigorayevich — Master of Sports, Golubev Dmitry Yuryevich — 1st sports category (Maikop, Adygea Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia)
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Coach:
Murtazaliev Ziyabudin Murtazalieevich
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Preliminary processing: July 8, 2002.
Departure on the route: July 9, 2002. Summit and return to base camp Erydag: July 12, 2002.
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Organization: Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia.
General photo of the summit of Erydag.
- Left part of the NW wall G. Shchedrin, 81 – 6A category of difficulty.
- Left part of the NW wall via the "mirror" S. Efimov, 81 – 6A category of difficulty.
- Left part of the NW wall via the "sickle" A. Babitskiy, 81 – 6A category of difficulty.
- Center of the NW wall S. Belousov, 86 – 5B category of difficulty.
February 1998 from the village of Kurush at 2500 m.
Photo 3. Panorama of the climbing area.
Photo 2. Route profile.
Date and time of shooting September 14, 1998.
"Smena-8M".
Technical photo of the route. June 1996 from 2650 m.
Photo 4. Place of the second overnight stay on the "sickle" on Babitskiy's route, R15, July 10, 2002.
Notes
2nd control point on Babitskiy's route
Summit (cairn on the edge of the plateau)
Note. Notes at the 1st bastion (1st control point) and in the "book" (3rd control point) of Efimov's route were not found. Left their own.
Photo 1. Golubev passing the cornice of the niche of the 1st bastion on Efimov's route. Shot from R3, ATO. July 9, 2002.
Photo 3. Golubev on the "ram's foreheads" under the "sickle handle" on Babitskiy's route.
Passing the 10th rope, shot from R9. July 10, 2002.
Photo 2. Golubev on the 1st bastion on Efimov's route. Shot from R4. July 9, 2002.
Photo 5. Golubev on the handrail. Shot from R15. Passing the section processed in the evening
R15–R16. July 11, 2002.
Photo 6. Group on the summit (edge of the plateau) at the cairn — junction of Shchedrin's, Efimov's, and Babitskiy's routes. July 12, 2002.