A couple of comments after the ascent — February 2020 — on the Dubovikova route on Erydag 5A.

Section 0–1

At the starting point — 2 internal corners — we climbed the right one. The start is with a lift, then it "climbs" 2-3 times — stood in the runner loop. There is at least 1 bolted hook on the section.

The start on the left corner seems easier, but then you might want to switch to the right one.

Section 1–2: everything is logical, no comments.

Section 2–3 on the cornice — several pitons (bolted hooks), (didn't climb out). From point 3, the crack of section 4–5 is clearly visible (at the very beginning of the grotto, the left part of the grotto).

On section R3–R4, you want to hang a belay, you need to overcome the failure. In the grotto, you can set up a couple of tents.

Section R4–R5 is an artificial technical obstacle (ITO) from the start. The first point (small cam, possibly a "syringe") is at an outstretched hand upwards.

Further:

• a couple of climbing movements vertically upwards;
• step to the left, 2 anchors in the crack on the left;
• step to the right, 2-3 anchors in the right crack.

Exit to the shelf.

In the grotto, a piton is driven in the center. The climbing is more difficult there. We couldn't pass there.

It's possible to pass sections R2–R4 diagonally "past station R3" (that's how I climbed).

In the middle of the diagonal 2–4, there is a bolted hook. It's also possible to go along the shelf from station 2 to the right and climb vertically upwards. Visually, climbing in these options seems easier than through the cornice. The downside is that the crack is not visible, along which the next section goes.

Stations 1, 2, 3 — 3 bolted hooks each.

The rope is on the plateau. Start from under the crack — station on the talus. Before the plateau, at 3–4 m, there is a convenient shelf to belay the second. On the plateau, there's nothing to belay.

• After "TOP-1", you exit onto the plateau for the entire rope and sit;
• The second climbs "past you".

This text was written by: Muzhikin Ivan, Technolog mountaineering club, St. Petersburg +7 965 025 07 13