St. Petersburg Championship 2024

Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the center of the East wall (Syshchikov's route) by the St. Petersburg team from 8:00 on February 8, 2024, to 17:00 on February 10, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Kirill Aleksandrovich Kozhukhov, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Aleksey Igorevich Solovey, MS; Nikolay Vyacheslavovich Yakuba, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	T.I. Timoshenko, S.A. Semiletkin
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Federation of St. Petersburg
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1	Region	Caucasus
2.3	Number of the section according to the classification table	2.9 From the Krestovy Pass to the Shaviklde summit
2.4	Name and height of the summit	Tsey-Loam (Gaykomd, Kyazi)
2.5	Coordinates of the summit	42°50′08.8″ N 44°51′00.4″ E
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1	Name of the route	Center of the East wall
3.2	Difficulty category	5B
3.3	Degree of route development	4 passages (known to us)
3.4	Nature of the route terrain	rock
3.5	Height difference of the route	685 m
3.6	Length of the route	900 m
3.7	Technical elements of the route	II–IV cat. diff. rocks — 300 m, V–VI cat. diff. rocks — 600 m
3.8	Average steepness of the route	70 degrees
3.9	Average steepness of the main part of the route	80 degrees
3.10	Descent from the summit	Via route 2A, down the right couloir of the 3rd ridge
3.11	Additional characteristics of the route	Water absent in summer
4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1	Time of movement	17 h 5 min (including processing)
4.2	Overnight stays	February 9, on a snow shelf, lying down
4.3	Time spent on route processing	4 h, on February 8, 2024, from 13:13 to 16:58
4.4	Start of the route	February 9, 2024, at 7:00
4.5	Reach the summit	February 10, 2024, at 10:18
4.6	Return to the base camp	February 10, 2024, at 13:00
5. Characteristics of Weather Conditions
5.1	Temperature	around –5 °C during the day, –15 °C at night
5.2	Wind speed	1–4 m/s
5.3	Precipitation	no precipitation
5.4	Visibility	clear, excellent visibility
6. Person Responsible for the Report
6.1	Full name, e-mail	Nikolay Yakuba, nick.yakuba@gmail.com

II. Ascent Description

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Fig. 1: Summits of Tsey-Loam (right) and Koazoy-Loam (left). Photo from the Kyazi camp

The summits of Tsey-Loam and Koazoy-Loam are located in the Rocky Range of the Greater Caucasus, in the section of the range between the Terek (to the west) and Assa rivers. The Tsey-Loam summit (3171 m) is the highest in the massif, towering over Koazoy-Loam (3100 m) and neighboring peaks. Previously, the massif was known as Girech, then as Gaykomd, and later as Kyazi.

The Kyazi alpine camp is located at the foot of the massif; the approach to the southern wall of the massif takes approximately 1–1.5 hours. There are no glaciers in the area of the massif; water is absent on the wall during hot weather.

Complex technical routes pass along the following walls of the massif:

Southern wall
Eastern wall

2. Characteristics of the Route

The Syshchikov route to the summit of Tsey-Loam passes through the center of the eastern wall from the couloir between the Tsey-Loam and Koazoy-Loam massifs. The wall section begins in the middle of the couloir, and the route leads directly to the summit. In Fig. 2, the route is marked with the number 10, and in Fig. 3, you can see a panorama of the eastern wall with the route line taken from the opposite wall of Koazoy-Loam.

The eastern wall is illuminated by the sun primarily in the morning; by 13:00, the route is in the shade. In winter, snow remains on the wall for a long time (compared to routes on the southern wall), which can significantly complicate climbing.

Fig. 2: Panorama of the massif with marked route lines

In Fig. 4, you can see the beginning of the wall section of the route. To the left of the route line, a huge internal angle is visible, ending in a cornice, where the Mukhametzyanov route passes. To the right, behind the angle, the Ivanov route passes (not classified).

Fig. 3: Route line (photo from the Syshchikov team's report)

Fig. 4: Beginning of the wall section of the route

Friends	Anchor Bolts	Bolt Hangers	Nuts	R	Length	Steepness	Difficulty
1	0	0	0	R16	60 m	50°	III
8	2	0	0	R15	40 m	75°	V
6	5	0	0	R14	50 m	75°	V
4	5	0	0	R13	50 m	75°	V
4	4	0	0	R12	50 m	70°	V
5	5	0	0	R11	10 m, 90°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V
8/5	8	0	2	R10	30 m	95°	A3
5	8	0	0	R9	30 m, 80°, V; 10 m, 90°, V1
8	5	0	0	R8	60 m	70°	V
9	1	0	0	R7	30 m, 90°, VI; 10 m, 95°, A2
7/5	5/2	0	0	R6	50 m, 80°, V1; A2
5	0	0	0	R4–R5	40 m, 70°, V; 80 m, 20°, I
5	8	1	0	R3	20 m, 70°, V1; 30 m, 70°, V
6	3	0	0	R2	30 m	75°	VI
6/2	3	0	1	R1	20 m, 75°, VI; 10 m, 90°, A2

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

Just before the ascent (February 6), there was a significant snowfall (about 40–45 cm of snow fell, see Fig. 1). The following days were sunny, but a large amount of snow remained on the ledges.

After waiting a day after the snowfall, we began working on the route on February 8.

The initial plan did not involve processing. We wanted to:

Start working on the route around 12:00;
Climb up to a large ledge in the area of R5 within 5 hours (where it's possible to organize an excellent lying-down overnight stay);
Then hang the next complex ropes.

The plan was to reach the summit on February 9.

The large amount of snow in the couloir allowed us to approach the start of the wall section of the route without being tied up (section R0–R1 according to the Syshchikov team's description).

However, we underestimated the time required to approach the route (complicated by deep snow) and the difficulty of the lower sections. The approach to the route through deep snow and finding the start of the route took about 2.5 hours, shifting the start time by more than an hour. At the same time, the lower part of the wall turned out to be quite steep and destroyed. In the remaining time, we managed to reach R4, where only a sitting overnight stay is possible. It was decided to descend to the camp.

The next day, we started working at 7:00 from R4 and by 17:00 had overcome the key ropes and climbed onto a sloping snow shelf, where we trampled a site for a lying-down overnight stay. On February 10, at 10:18, we reached the summit. We descended to the camp without incidents.

Movement was carried out simultaneously. All three participants were tied with a 60 m rope. The leader set up stations every 25–30 m; the second provided insurance for the leader from the top. The third participant climbed with a cow's tail along the top rope with insurance on the team rope.

Section #	Description	Photo
R0–R1	The approach to the route is made through a narrow couloir between the Gaykomd (Main) and Gaykomd (East Love) summits. You need to climb up about 300 m along the couloir, slightly above the overhanging internal angle with a cornice at the end.	Fig. 4, 5
R1–R2	The wall becomes steep from the first meters and turns into a small overhang, but with good relief for ITO and insurance. After that, it eases to about 70°, the relief for insurance is good. The station is on friends.	Fig. 4
R2–R3	A slightly positive internal angle, slightly deviating to the left. Friends and anchors are used for insurance (anchors fit well into the shell-shaped formations where moss grows).
R3–R4	Further, the wall eases even more. You need to climb, veering slightly to the right, to exit onto a fairly large grassy ledge. There is a station on the ledge (a sitting overnight stay is possible).
R4–R5	From the ledge, up the 5th category rocks, veering slightly to the left. Friends and anchors go well. The station is on the next large ledge (exactly 60 m from station to station). There is a very good place for a lying-down overnight stay on the ledge. Further, along the ledge, traverse left to the base of a large monolithic internal angle.	Fig. 6
R5–R6	Up the system of internal angles. Most of the section is done by free climbing. Good, reliable relief. Insurance is on medium-sized friends and anchors.
R6–R7	Along the internal angles, we approach the base of the cornice. The cornice is passed on ITO (large friends), from left to right along a large crack. Behind the cornice, the crack turns into a vertical internal angle; we climb up it. Further, after 15 m, the wall eases, and you can switch to free climbing.	Fig. 7
R7–R8	Along positive rocks, we climb up, veering slightly to the right, to the base of the next large internal angle. In the middle of the section, there is a small wall; ITO is used.	Fig. 8
R8–R9	Along the internal angles, we approach the cornice. The lower part is climbed; closer to the cornice, ITO is used along the crack on large friends (№4). The station is on friends. There is a втулка ( втулка is not translated as it's a technical term) from the first ascenders under a spit, but we didn't need it.	Fig. 9
R9–R10	The cornice is passed on friends.	Fig. 9
R10–R11	Further, there is a vertical internal angle with a good crack for friends; ITO is used. The exit is onto a gentle slope, in our case, with snow. We trampled a small ledge slightly below the route line and set up an overnight stay in a tent.	Fig. 10
R11–R12	A gentle, partially grass-covered slope. A small wall is located slightly to the right, and then, along positive rocks, you need to veer to the right, under a small cornice. The station is on a ledge under the cornice (a lying-down overnight stay is possible).
R12–R13	The cornice is passed along the crack on ITO (about 10 m). Further, there are rocks of the 5th category. Along them, to the base of the couloir.
R13–R14	Up the couloir to the beginning of the internal angles leading to the right.
R14–R15	Along the internal angles to the right; exit onto a saddle.
R15–R16	From the saddle, to the left, up the 3rd category rocks.