Report
On the first ascent to the summit "Novichok" via route 1B cat. diff. by a group of climbers from the "Planet" club, Rostov-on-Don dated May 3, 2018
Rostov-on-Don 2018
I. Climbing Report
- General Information.
1.1. Leader: Enatsky Andrey Nikolaevich, 1st sports category. 1.2. Participants: * Matukhno Alexey Evgenievich, 3rd sports category. * Kryukov Dmitry Nikolaevich, 3rd sports category. * Lebedeva Ekaterina Nikolaevna, 3rd sports category. * Lyapin Ivan Pavlovich, 3rd sports category.
1.3. Coach: Nazarenko Olga Vyacheslavovna. 1.4. Organization: Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Rostov Region, "Planet" club.
- Characteristics of the Climbing Object.
2.1. Dzheyrakhsky district, Republic of Ingushetia. 2.2. Rocky ridge. 2.3. Caucasus. 2.4. Summit "Novichok" 2988 m. 2.9. From the Krestovy pass to the summit Shaviklde.
- Characteristics of the Route.
3.1. Along the south-eastern ridge. 3.2. Estimated cat. diff. – 1B. 3.3. First ascent. 3.4. Terrain type – rocky. 3.5. Height difference 340 m. 3.6. Route length 315 m. 3.7. Technical elements of the route: * 1 cat. diff. rocks 315 m. * Rappelling – 10 m (on the route). * Rappelling – 45 m (on descent). 3.8. Descent from the summit by rappelling into a scree couloir and then along grassy slopes to the camp on the Jarlam pass. 3.9. No water on the route (snow in May).
- Characteristics of the Team's Actions.
4.1. Travel time (from the Jarlam pass) – 7 h 15 min. 4.2. No overnight stays on the route. 4.3. Start of the route: at 06:00 on May 3, 2018. 4.4. Reaching the summit: at 10:45 on May 3, 2018. 4.5. Return to the camp (on the Jarlam pass): at 13:15 on May 3, 2018.
- Person responsible for the report: Lyapin Ivan Pavlovich, +7 903 401-99-26, ip.lyapin-88@yandex.ru
II. Description of the Ascent
- Approach Description.
Photo 1. Map of the area. The summit "Novichok" is located on the ridge connecting the summit Jarlam Central and the summit Jarlam.
From the Kyazi alpine camp: * To the Jarlam pass – 3–3.5 h. * On the pass, turn right and after 200 m there will be a convenient place for an overnight stay. * No water, only snow.
From the overnight stay, move along a wide grassy couloir, turning into steep scree, towards the left saddle on the north-western ridge of the summit Jarlam Central. Time to approach from the overnight stay – 1 h 20 min.
Photo 2. Panorama of the ridge and camp on the Jarlam pass.
Photo 3. Approach and descent.
- Route Description.
The beginning of the technical part of the route is on the saddle. From the saddle, move west along the right part and middle of the ridge. Slabs, gendarmes, destroyed rocks. In May, the rocks are covered with snow. Insurance is carried out for ledges.
Photo 4. Start of the route. After 160 m, a gap in the ridge, rappelling (10 m). The place for rappelling is convenient.
After rappelling: * climb to a destroyed gendarme; * from the gendarme, climbing down into a small gap in the ridge. Insurance, rockfall hazard!
Further movement along the ridge simultaneously, belaying for ledges, until the ridge ascent, which is overcome: * along a shelf on the right side; * then along an inner corner leading up to the ridge.
For insurance, 2 rock protection elements were used. Further along a simple ridge to the summit "Novichok". From the rappelling to the summit 250 m. A cairn is on the summit.
- Descent.
From the summit, west to the gap in the ridge and along the scree to the left to a rock ledge with a rappelling loop 120 m. Rappelling onto the scree under the wall 40 m.
Photo 5. Ridge ascent.
Photo 6. Summit.
Photo 7. View from the summit on the route.
Photo 8. Descent to the gap in the ridge.
Photo 9. Rappelling on descent.