The Western ridge - category 4B difficulty (G. Pro­kudaev, I. Kor­zun and V. Na­u­menko — July 1936).

The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac under the Sella pass see in the description 42.

From the bivouac site across the glacier (in crampons!) in the direction of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle between the Pik Pushkina and the Unnamed 4880 m. Bergschrund bypass along the avalanche chute and behind it 80–100 m up the icy-snowy couloir (rockfall!). At a large rocky "tooth" to the right — exit to the rocks of the Southern counterfort of the Unnamed 4880 m and up to the right along the moderately difficult rocks to the ridge of the counterfort.

Further movement along:

• moderately difficult rocks,
• simple rocky sections,
• snowy slopes,
• ledges,
• small 2–4-meter walls (insurance!),

ascent under the rocky tower of the Unnamed 4880 m.

Under the Fig. 123 wall of the tower along steep rocks and slabs (piton insurance!) upwards-to the right, crossing two not ярко expressed counterforts; exit to the saddle between the summits of the Unnamed 4880 m and Zapadnaya Mizhirgi.

From the initial bivouac to the saddle — 7–9 hours.

From the saddle to the right (without backpacks) and 70–80 m up along simple rocky ridge. The first rocky ascent of the ridge pass along the moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the 15-meter couloir (piton insurance!). Further 90 m along the simple rocky-snowy ridge to the second rocky ascent.

Along the wall of the ascent 18 m up to a ledge (piton insurance!), along it 15–20 m to the right-up to a col. Further along the ledges to the left and up to the snowy ridge. Along the ridge with rocky outcrops, bypassing a rock to the right, up and through 80–90 m ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Mizhirgi.

From the saddle to the summit — 2.5–3 hours.

Descent along the ascent route with two 40-meter rappels (to the saddle 1.5–2 hours.). On the saddle — bivouac, from the saddle to the glacier — 3.5–4 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — snowy plateau under the Sella pass.
3. Departure time — not later than 3:00 AM.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×40 m; expendable cordelette — 10 m; rock pitons — 10–12; ice pitons — 2; cordelette for descent — 40 m; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
5. Bivouac sites — on a snowy ledge in the center of the Southern counterfort of the Unnamed 4880 m, on the saddle between the summits, on the Zapadnaya Mizhirgi summit.
6. Start of descent from the saddle — not later than 3:00 AM.