57. Krumkol via the South Ridge, cat. 3B (Kronok and Kolt — 1930; D. Salov and Yu. Golizdra — August 27, 1937; Fig. 19).

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Krumkol Glacier under the scree slopes of the South Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42, the path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges — in description 43.

From the moraine:

• 300 m up the scree Southwest slope,
• then along a wide scree snow-filled couloir ascent to the South Ridge of Krumkol peak.

Along the route:

• along a simple, heavily destroyed rocky ridge,
• then along a gently sloping snowy ridge and slope ascent to under a 30-meter rocky belt, which is passed through a central rocky couloir (insurance!).

Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty of a wide, alternating with snowy ridges and slopes of the South Ridge ascent to under the wall of the take-off.

Under the take-off:

• 7–8-meter traverse to the left,
• along the central 15–20-meter ice groove or rocks on its left side (insurance!) straight up ascent to the take-off.

From the take-off:

• up along the sharp rocky-snowy ridge to under a 40-meter gendarme.

From the ridge:

• 3–4 m up the wall to a shelf (pitons insurance!)
• along the shelf 8–10 m to the left
• along a 3–4-meter internal corner ascent to a site
• further along shelves and slabs up and to the right to the right counterfort of the gendarme
• along it through 6–8 m ascent to the gendarme (pitons insurance!)

On the gendarme:

• a snowy cornice above the gendarme — bypass to the right

Further:

• along the snowy ridge (cornices!)
• bypassing a rocky ledge along a 6–8-meter chimney on the left
• exit to the East Ridge
• from here to the left and through 40 m ascent to the summit of Krumkol

Time:

• from the initial bivouac — 8–10 hours
• descent along the ascent path — 4–5 hours

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine under the southwest slopes of the South Ridge of Krumkol peak.
3. Departure time — 4–5 am. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; expendable cordelette — 5 m; rock pitons — 3–4; ice pitons — 2; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 8–10; crampons for the approach from the "Bezengi" alpine camp; tent — 1.
4. Places for bivouacs — on screes and simple rocks of the lower part of the South Ridge, on the snowy ridge under the summit.