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4. ROUTE DESCRIPTION Ascent to the Main peak of Sakashil-Bashi (4100 m) via the northern edge Day 1 - approach through the Sakashil-do gorge to the bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier (at an elevation of 3430 m) - see the general description of ascents to the Sakashil-Bashi massif. From Tyrnyauz - 9:00-10:00. Day 2 - departure should be early - at 3-4 am; from the bivouac, follow the glacier to the foot of the rock buttress, approach the bergschrund (at the beginning of summer, the glacier is snow-covered, by the end of summer - open, crevices are easily bypassed). The elevation of the bergschrund edge under the buttress is 3530 m. Cramp-ons are put on here. Crossing the bergschrund is not complicated - at the beginning of summer it is closed, at the end (September 1969) it is possible to cross on snow bridges. One rope is passed directly up the ice couloir (at the beginning of summer - firn) between the two rock ridges of the buttress. Steepness is about 45°. Then, crossing the couloir to the right and upwards, we approach the rocks of the right (along the route) ridge and move along the edge of the ice and rocks; at the end of the second rope, a rock piton is hammered in for belay. After crossing a small ice tongue, we emerge onto the rocks. Cramp-ons are removed and we ascend the rocks upwards along the couloir for one rope. Rocks are of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (unstable rocks). Further:

• to the right - along a vaguely expressed internal corner, one rope, one intermediate piton is hammered in;
• then slightly to the right and up along a steep internal corner with a small number of holds, exit to the ridge of the buttress.