Evgenii Lepikhin

Bad weather every day. One of the clients failed to acclimatize. Turned back from 5000. One tent was torn, survived 3 storms.

Minor rescue work, had to turn around from 6500: a chance partner had acute angina.

On the crux pitch I got caught in a rockfall: the route had already started melting that year, and a rock ledge melted out in the middle of the glacier. Rocks fell on me from it along the rope.

During a rescue operation ascent at 5800m (didn't rescue; were evacuating a body). Ascended to 6700m, where they subsequently waited out a blizzard for two days. No one had summited in 8 years.

Completed the first ascents of the season.