On the crux pitch I got caught in a rockfall: the route had already started melting that year, and a rock ledge melted out in the middle of the glacier. Rocks fell on me from it along the rope.
Байчечекей
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
Part-of-the-day route or a short day from base. Approach and descent are broadly straightforward, route-finding is rarely a problem.
There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.
Generally controllable, but with gaps, awkward placements or isolated sections where the consequences can be unpleasant.
3 sections · 275 m
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Translated from Russian
On the crux pitch I got caught in a rockfall: the route had already started melting that year, and a rock ledge melted out in the middle of the glacier. Rocks fell on me from it along the rope.