Turned around before the crux — due to conditions, time, or another reason. The crux was not climbed and not seen up close; less informative than "Crux passed", but still useful for history.
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Ismoil Somoni
Akademiya Nauk Range · Districts under Central Government Jurisdiction · Tajikistan
Turned around before the crux — due to conditions, time, or another reason. The crux was not climbed and not seen up close; less informative than "Crux passed", but still useful for history.
Expedition scale: many days on route, strong remoteness or nearly a point of no return. Retreat, descent and rescue become a major project of their own.
Serious objective danger over a noticeable part of the route or descent. The window of good conditions is fairly narrow, and the cost of a mistake is noticeably higher.
Mixed picture: recurring run-outs, dubious placements, slabs, ledges or swings. A fall may end in injury.
Translated from Russian
During a rescue operation ascent at 5800m (didn't rescue; were evacuating a body). Ascended to 6700m, where they subsequently waited out a blizzard for two days. No one had summited in 8 years.