левому ребру центр. кф. СЗ стены

Rock2,194 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent via the left edge of the central buttress of the Central wall of v. Omut, category 3B complexity, with a description of key sections and necessary precautions.

Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further:

  • A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
  • The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:
  • Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
  • Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.
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