v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.