Via Western spur, Cat. II

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Uluun River. Begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the right of the Western spur, sticking to the rocks. After 30 minutes, exit left onto the spur, which consists of snowy, non-technical rocks. After 80 m, the ridge becomes steeper. Approach an 8-meter wall, in front of which, lower on the ridge, a control cairn is built. The wall is climbed by alternating movement up to the left. Continue along the not-so-steep ridge for 65 m. A small 5-meter wall is encountered. The ridge turns left and abuts a 7-meter wall, to the right of which there are internal corners and large walls. Move up one of the internal corners with alternating belays. Continue with simultaneous movement along the ridge, which drops off to the right with large walls up to 60 m deep. Moving along the ridge, reach the walls of a "gendarme," which is climbed from right to left via small walls and an internal corner (first crux). Climbing is quite challenging for winter conditions; hook belays with rope protection are required. To the right, 80-meter walls with a frozen waterfall between them are visible. After passing the crux, move 55 m with simultaneous belays along the ridge. The ridge is snowy; then exit onto inclined snowy slabs. Hook belays with rope protection are necessary (second crux). After 30 m, enter a wide snowy chimney; after 50 m of movement through it, exit back onto the ridge. Small "gendarme" features on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. After 80 m, approach an 8-meter internal corner and a 15-meter wall above it. After passing them, exit back onto a gentle ridge leading to the summit. Descend from the summit via the Category I route. Total ascent time is 5-6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment