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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of a new 4A route to the Maly Zamak peak in the Dugoba alpine camp, including details of the ascent and reflections on equipment and route classification.

Dugoba. Maly Zamok. Aleksey Tyulyupo

Lyosha Tyulyupo is currently in Dugoba, climbing in the mountains. He would have written this himself, but the internet there is, let's say, unstable. So, he asked me to post a couple of updates, sending the materials through an opportunity. And that's what I'm doing :0)) The first post is about a new route on Maly Zamok (4A) - a description and some thoughts on the topic.... This spring, an article about a new 3B route on Maly Zamok - the mountain closest to the Dugoba alp camp - appeared on "Risk". The experience of the summer gatherings showed that the route turned out to be very much in demand. However, few people know that a 4A route was laid out on the same wall. There were no enthusiasts to climb it during the May gatherings, so I didn't hurry with the report. A few days ago, we made a second ascent and:

  • equipped the stations with bolts. Now, we can safely recommend this route to gathering participants with good rock climbing training.
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