В гребню

Mixed4,484 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Route description to the summit of Manas via the East ridge from the camp at 3300 "May nights", duration 11 hours.

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

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The ascent to the summit of Manas (4482 m) via the Eastern Ridge, rated as 2B difficulty category, was made by a group led by Gorbatenko V.M. in May 1979.

  1. Climbing technique, ridge —
  2. Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge
  3. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
  4. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m
  5. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none
  6. Difference in travel hours — II
  7. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
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