с пер. Шестерых

Rock4,279 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent certificate for Pik Studentov (4279 m), first ascent via ridge route, category 4A in the area of Golubinoe lake, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.

Ascent Passport

to p. Students 4279 m. First ascent, I category of ascent — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. The summit p. Students and per Shesterikh, route characteristics — ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 4th cat. of difficulty — 200 m, 3+ cat. of difficulty — 140 m, the rest 2–3 cat. of difficulty; average steepness — 55° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 42 (12), protection elements — 15 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Alimov V. P., CMS Participants:

  • Razamascev M.Yu. 2nd sports category
  • Polyncev V.A. 2nd sports category
  • Churukanova L.I. 2nd sports category
  • Desyatov P.R. 2nd sports category
  1. Team coach Belousov E.B. CMS II. Date of departure on the route and return from the route — August 20, 1987
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Description of the route to the top of Students through the pass of the Six with a detailed analysis of technical sections and relief elements.

From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1) Further:

  • Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
  • 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
  • Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
  • From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
  • In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
  • Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
  • Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).
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Ascent to Mount Everest via the South Col route along the Southeast Ridge.

R2

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