СЗ ребру

Mixed4,213 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the 2B category difficulty route to the Tuyuksu peak via the north-west edge with recommendations and information about the first ascent.

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge

Route description.

The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

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