Youthful 2B cat. diff. via North slope

Description of the route. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto the glacier and move towards the rock outcrop on the northern slope of the peak. Move along the northern slope to the right (over ice) of the rock outcrop, in teams, wearing crampons. Depending on the condition of the slope, one can move simultaneously or with alternating belays. The first 150–200 m are overcome directly upwards, here the slope steepness is 25–30°, then it increases to 50°, so piton belays are used (2–3 pitons). Then a short traverse to the right, along small crevices. After 50–60 m, ascend a small flattened area, where many crevices up to 1 m wide are encountered. At the end of the section, near a driven ice piton, there is a control cairn. From here: