Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the ancient moraine of Manshuk Mametova Glacier Alpengrad — follow the right side of the glacier to the foot of the western counterfort of the summit. The route begins with overcoming an ice slope up to 100 m long and 45° steepness (running belay, 3 hooks). The first rocky section (up to 40 m) is bypassed on the left through shelves (running belay, 2 hooks and through ledges). The ascent continues up to the right along the left side of the ice-snow couloir with 45° steepness, up to 60 m long. Climb to the ridge of the counterfort. Simultaneous movement is possible on this section. Further, along the left side of the snow-ice couloir, exit under the pre-summit ridge (if ice is exposed in the couloir, step cutting is necessary, belay is running). The next section of the route — up to the right with an exit to the summit ridge and the summit itself. When moving, pay special attention to the large number of "live" rocks. Descent via Mametova Glacier or through Antikainen summit.