Description of Manshuk Mametova Route via the Ridge

To ascend the peak of Manshuk Mametova, it is advisable to organize the initial bivouac on the Alpine camp grounds or slightly higher - on a gravel site. From there, head to the Manshuk Mametova glacier and move along its right side in the direction of the eponymous pass. The ascent to the pass (3750 m), which connects the upper reaches of the Malo-Almatinskoye valley with the middle part of the Leviy Talgar valley, is via a slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along loose scree and snow. From here, the ascent begins along the northern ridge, which is heavily damaged at the beginning. The first and second gendarmes are overcome head-on, the third is bypassed on the left, the fourth is taken head-on, and it has the first control cairn. The approach to the fifth gendarme is through an 8-meter gap along a very sharp ridge (overcome head-on, in a "konkovy" style). It has the second control cairn. Then follows a rock (bypassed on the left along a snowy slope). A heavily damaged rocky ridge and the sixth gendarme (taken head-on). It has the third control point. Further movement is along the ridge, which has a sharp drop of 60–70 m to the foot of the seventh gendarme (up to 60 m high), composed of granite with red hues. It is overcome along the north-eastern wall as follows:

• From the gap, go up to the left
• Traverse the wall to the right, in the direction of the crevices
• Along the crevice, reach a small chimney (insurance is hook-based, 3–4 hooks) From the chimney, ascend to the left along the damaged part of the wall (sometimes icy) along the ridge with a jumble of rocky fragments to the fourth control cairn. Before the main tower, the ridge drops sharply. From here, the key point of the route is visible.