С гребню

Ice4,182 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
0

Description of the route to the summit of Lokomotiv in Trans-Ili Alatau via Tuyuk-Su glacier with technical details and recommendations.

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

  • Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
  • Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
  • Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
  • Step cutting
  • Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.
0
0