Kazakh Mountaineers and Tourists Club

1962 Alma-Ata

Description

Ascent to Peak Komsomola (4376 m) via the Northwest Ridge It is advisable to organize an overnight stay at the moraine of Bогдановича glacier, at the foot of the western ridge of v. Komsomol. From the bivouac, the path goes along the snow-covered scree to the left of the western ridge of Komsomol towards the saddle between the peaks Fizzkulturnik and Komsomol. When ascending, stay on the left side. On the saddle, there is a control cairn. After the saddle, the 1st small gendarme is bypassed on the right along easy rocks, after which we approach the base of a rock wall 6–7 m high, blocking the ridge. The rocks are steep, in some places overhanging (on the lower part, there are ice walls 60–70° on the right and left). The wall is overcome on the right side by complex climbing with piton belay to the left and upwards, belaying through ice screws. A 40 m rope is required to bypass the wall on the ice.