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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the climbing route to Pik Kompartii Kazakhstana (northern and southern peaks) in the Trans-Ili Alatau range with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and category of difficulty.

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Orography of the Upper Reaches of the Uzun-Kargaly River Basin

(Jasil-kul Glacier) The Jasil-kul glacier is located in the western part of the Zailiyskiy Alatau ridge, in the upper reaches of the Uzun-Kargaly river. Its length is about two kilometers, and it is oriented from north to south. At the glacier tongue:

  • a long lake stretches across the moraine,
  • the glacier tongue descends steeply towards the lake. In the depths of the cirque, the "Uzlovaya" peak rises, from which the Tasso-Kemin ridge extends southwest. In 1940-1941, alpinists from Kyrgyzstan first visited this area and summited several peaks:
  • Tumannaya
  • Aszhaluu
  • Druzhby
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