В гребню

Description of the route to Peak Amangeldy via the southeast wall, difficulty category 3A, with recommendations on equipment and safety precautions.

Route Description From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpinrad and continue along the trail towards the Mametova Glacier. Between the peaks of Pioneer and Amangeldy, located to the left of the lake, lies the Pioneer Pass. Do not ascend to the pass itself. The ascent to the start of the route should begin earlier, before reaching the pass; turn left under the wall of Peak Amangeldy. The approach to the wall goes along a wide talus slope between rocky outcrops. After passing between the rocky outcrops, proceed along the wall in the direction of the pass. Continue until the view opens up to the Bogdanovich Glacier. Here, a talus ridge adjoins the rocky wall of the peak, extending from the pass. The route begins from this point. It is advisable to start the route not via the chimney clogged with stones in its upper part, but rather about ten meters to the left, via a deep crevice, section R1–R2. The crevice leads to a narrow horizontal ledge; traverse it to a couloir with stones (caution: stones!), cross the couloir in its lower part, and exit to a small platform. From it, ascend freely to a 10-meter wall to the next small platform. From here, exit to the ridge via an inclined crevice (R3–R4). Movement along it is hindered by ice and wet rocks. Before exiting the chimney, transfer to its right wall, ascend to a platform (camouflaged belay) R4. From the platform, ascend 70–80 meters along severely damaged rocks (R4–R5–R6), then along a sharp ridge to the foot of the summit tower. Bypass it from the south along moderately difficult rocks and exit to the summit tower (from here, the cirques of the Bogdanovich and Tuyk-Su glaciers are clearly visible). Descend in a southwest direction via route 1B. The route was first traversed by a group of instructors from the mountain training school in 1943 under the leadership of V. Nearonsky. Recommendations Number of participants: 8–10 people. Initial bivouac: Alpenrad.