с юга по кулуару и 3 взлету
Route Description: с юга по кулуару и 3 взлету
Description of the ascent route to Zaramag peak, 4221 m, from PHA via the left gully, category of complexity 2B.
Description of the ascent route to the summit Zaramag, 4221 m, from the south, via the left couloir. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.
From the lower Zaramag camps in the Zaramag gorge, head towards the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramag. Cross the stream and river via a small bridge and ascend right-upwards along the trail in the direction of the ridge moraines. Approach the left moraine and ascend it. Traverse across the scree to the right (in the direction of travel) moraine. Follow it until the reddish rocks and, bypassing them on the right, continue upwards to the upper camps. The journey from the lower camps to the upper ones takes around 2 hours. From the upper camps, head left upwards, traversing under the slopes of the Adai-Khokh massif to avoid the conical moraine. Reach the Zaramag glacier. The journey from the upper camps takes 30–40 minutes. While crossing the glacier, move left towards the ridge with Mt. Zaramag, visible against the skyline (1.5–2 hours). Bypass the ridge on the left and head towards the rocky white-yellow "island", leaving the entire Mt. Zaramag massif on the right (in the direction of travel). (Fig. 1) Ascend the snowy-icy slope (about 45°) to the right-upwards, 4–5 ropes. CAUTION! Crevasses possible! Continue in the direction of the steep, snowy-icy, even couloir between the gendarme on the ridge leading to Mt. VTsSPS and Mt. Zaramag. The couloir's steepness is 30–35°, and in its upper part, 40–45°. The extent is 8–10 ropes. The couloir is visible from bottom to top. In the middle of its upper part, a rocky "island" is visible. There may be ice in the upper part of the couloir. Travel in crampons or with piton protection. (Fig. 2)