СВ кулуару 3 гребня

Fig. 19 73. Taymaz Western peak ascent via North-East couloir and Western ridge (combined route by A. Rzhevsky, category III difficulty, fig. 19). The path from "Taymazi" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the exit onto the Taymazi East glacier is described in route 72. Upon reaching the Taymazi East glacier (closed crevasses), cross it, avoiding crevasses, upwards to the right under the North ridge - a spur of the Tsentralnaya Taymazi peak, separating the Taymazi East and Taymazi West glaciers. From the Taymazi East glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep avalanche-prone slope, followed by a snow slope, and further up - a simple, fragmented rocky couloir to reach the broad North ridge - a spur of Tsentralnaya Taymazi. The ridge serves as the initial bivouac site. The journey from "Taymazi" meadow takes 5-6 hours. From the bivouac, descend from the ridge onto the snow plateau of the Taymazi West glacier and traverse it (closed crevasses), avoiding crevasses to the left, to approach a steep snow couloir descending northeast from the Western ridge and the North counterfort of Taymazi West. From the plateau, overcome the wide bergschrund in the center via a snow bridge, then ascend directly up the 500-600-meter ice-and-snow couloir (possible rockfall from the left walls - belay) and through a steep ice gorge (pitched belay) to reach the right side of the first pinnacle on the Western ridge of Taymazi West.