Tjutyrgu Peak S.

Day 1.

From the Bezengi alpine camp, the trail goes along the right (orographically) coastal moraine of Bezengi Glacier to Misses-kosh. From Misses-kosh, the entire path to the Tjutyrgu cirque is clearly visible. A wide couloir with two rock steps resembling sheep's foreheads is visible. Two streams flow through the couloir, merging into one at the lower step. After crossing Bezengi Glacier, one needs to:

• ascend to its left-bank moraine to the right of the gully formed by the stream;
• cross the stream under the sheep's foreheads and skirt them on the grassy slopes on the left;
• before reaching the second step, cross the stream again via a snow bridge and ascend between the streams — first on grassy slopes, then on moraine. In its upper part, the couloir turns left, widens, and flattens, turning into a cirque. The cirque is bounded by the peaks, from right to left:
• Tjutyrgu;
• MVTU;