траверс
Mixed5А4,581 m
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing Peak Tikhonov - Koshtantau via the North Counterfort and West Ridge, category 5A, 8-9 hours from the initial bivouac and 6-8 hours from the bivouac on the saddle.
- Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:
- Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
- Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
- From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
- Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
- Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
- Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.
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