Archimedes. nandari dolor. 29 Agolferf

Arkhimed peak via V. Greben, 3A

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend the gorge along the trail of the Ukyu glacier’s terminal moraine, then along the glacier, bypassing the northern buttresses of the 3rd ridge on the left, to the snow-ice slope leading to Ural Pass –1.5–2 hours (From the “dovecote” –3/4–1 hour). Up the middle part of the slope (rockfall hazard on the first half of the ascent from the left from the slopes of the 1st gendarme of the 3rd ridge of p. Ural) into the cirque under the pass, and up — to the pass (fig. 1). From the bivouac 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the pre-summit “gendarme” begins along the rock ledge to the right of the ridge for 20 m and then up 40 m into the ridge’s gap (possible snow, flow ice). From the gap, descend to a ledge on the S side, along the ledge for 10 m and then up the internal angle for 30 m with piton belay to the ridge. Along the ridge simultaneously — to the top of the “gendarme”, here is a control cairn. Descent from the “gendarme”: 1st option — from the summit to the 3rd km to the protrusion, from it on a doubled rope, 7–10 m sportively down the smooth slab into the wide rock chimney. Along the chimney and then along the rocks to the left of the ridge to the isthmus (so-called “hole”), covered from above by a huge flat stone; 2nd option — from the summit first S ~40 m, then along the SW wall ledges to the same isthmus. From the isthmus, a planned or emergency descent to the N side is possible: rappel down the inclined internal angle, then down the broken rocks, two sports pitches leading into the cirque under the pass, then along the ascent route. From the isthmus, along the broken rocks to the left of the ridge, up to the snowy shoulder of the summit, then traverse left along the ledge to the rock couloir and up it with a S exit to the E summit. From the pass 3–4 hours.